The right eye makeup helps alleviate one’s looks by adding depth to the eyes. Photo Courtesy: Flavia Giuliodori, Riviera Lynn
Professionals will tell you that eye makeup is essential. With the right kind of eye makeup, even the simplest of outfits stand out making you look absolutely stunning. Celebrities like Zendaya and Alia Bhatt have shown us via their stunning eye makeup that the right combination of eye shadow, mascara and eyeliner can completely transform a person’s appearance. But perfecting your eye makeup application needs some knowledge and practice.
We have undoubtedly grown weary from our several unsuccessful attempts to pull off the cat or smoky eye look, but we are by no means ready to give up just yet. “Eye makeup selections reveal a lot about a person’s personality and attitude. It significantly aids in emphasising the eyes. You can make your eyes look larger, smaller, or more elongated depending on your preferences, claims Mumbai-based makeup artist Riviera Lynn, who has worked with a number of Bollywood stars, including Janhvi Kapoor, Alia Bhatt, Anushka Sharma, Sara Ali Khan, and Rashmika Mandanna. Publications including Vogue, Tatler, GQ, and Harper’s Bazaar have highlighted her work.
Seconding this, Flavia Giuliodori says, “The right eye makeup helps alleviate one’s looks by adding depth to the eyes. It complements one’s eye colour, makes the eyes appear large and simply draws attention to them.” Giuliodori is a makeup artist with 15 years of experience in editorial, beauty and celebrity makeup.
Mid-day Online spoke to both of these makeup wizards for some exclusive eye makeup tips and hacks that will ensure you look your best, be it for a regular day at the office or a party at the club.
5 Must have eye makeup products
1. Eyelash curler:
It’s a hand-operated beauty tool that enables you to curl eyelash hair to create lift. The functionality of pressing and positioning lashes upwards gives the illusion of bigger, brighter eyes.
They are used to thicken, lengthen, colour, curl and provide volume to the eyelashes. Using mascara helps you to frame your eyes.
3. Gel liner:
A gel liner is a versatile product. You can use it as an eyeliner, in the bottom water line as kajal and also smudge it close to the top lash line to give an illusion of thicker lashes.
4. Brow gel/brow pencils:
These can totally change a person’s face if done differently. Well-groomed brows can significantly enhance the overall eye makeup look.
5. Eyeshadow primer:
It prevents the eyeshadow from smudging and creasing thereby extending the life of eye makeup. The product helps make eyeshadow application even while enhancing the colours applied on top.
Eyeliners are a godsend
Lynn says, “Eyeliners play a significant role in eye makeup as they help define the eyes, enhance their shape, and add intensity to the overall look.” While we know the importance of applying eye-liners to enhance the look, there is often confusion about thick should it be. Lynn suggests considering some factors.
Eye shape and size:
The thickness of the liner should be determined by your eye shape and size. If you have less lid space, a thin line along the lash line is generally more flattering. For eyes with more lid space, you have more flexibility and can opt for a thicker line if desired.
The thickness of the liner also depends on the specific look you want to achieve. A thin line provides a more subtle and natural effect, while a thicker line creates a bold and more dramatic look.
Eye makeup balance:
Consider the overall balance of your eye makeup. If you have a bold eyeshadow look & heavy lash, a bold liner may be too much. On the other hand, if you have a more understated eye makeup look, it can provide a great impact.
However, she says, “The thickness of the liner is a matter of personal preference and experimentation. Feel free to play and experiment with different techniques and go for the one that fits you the best.”
In another handy tip, Giuliodori adds, “It’s best to tailor eyeliner application to your eye shape. For example, if you have small eyes, heavy liner across the eye can make them look even smaller.” She also lists down some tips on how to apply the liner depending on the shape of your eye.
Stick to lining only the outer half of the eye (from the center of the eye to the outer corner) You can even make the liner a bit thicker as it gets to the outer edge to give the eyes a bit of a lift.
For almond-shaped eyes you can try pretty much any eyeliner look (thin or thick). The versatile shape lets you try all sorts of different makeup looks.
When doing eyeliner for hooded eyes, be sure to get the liner right into the base of your lash line.
For monolid eyes, you should extend the liner right out, almost as far as the eyebrow. Be sure to exaggerate the wing too.
Hopping on the trend of coloured eyeliners
With pictures of almost everyone donning bright-coloured eyeliners flashing on our screens, it’s only natural to want to try it out for yourself. Giuliodori suggests trying out blue eyeliner for a more “approachable transition” from a black liner instead of directly jumping on bold colours. Making another suggestion she says, “You can also baby pink. It’s ideal for creating a pink-hued monochrome look, using similar shades of pink for the cheeks and lips.”
Encouraging all to try out coloured liner, Lynn says, “It can add a fun and vibrant touch to your eye makeup.” For a more monsoon-appropriate look, Lynn states, “Teal, blue and green are colours great for the monsoon. These colours also create a great contrast against earthy eyeshadow shades. Add the same colour pencil in the waterline for added effect. Metallic Bronze eyeliner is also a versatile option. It pairs beautifully with earthy or neutral eyeshadow shades and complements light eyes beautifully.”
Lynn and Giuliodori share some effective eye makeup look for everyday use
Tips by Lynn:
1. Kohl-rimmed eyes:
Applying kohl in the waterline can immediately add warmth and sensuality to the face. Apply a bit of mascara for added effect.
2. Brown smokey eye:
A brown smokey eye look is easy, sophisticated and super professional since it requires sticking to neutral tones on the face. Use a brown pencil or cream eyeshadow as a base on the eyelid. Roughly buff the colour all over the lids. Use a matte brown eye shadow over this and buff all over the eyelid going into the crease socket.
3. Light-lined eyes:
Use a brown or black kajal pencil to draw a thin line very close to the top lash line. Use a thin buffing brush to buff the product in place and slightly outward giving the illusion of a smudged-out wing.
Tips by Giuliodori:
1. Cat-eye wing but make it brown:
Softer, natural-looking colours are on trend, and when it comes to eye makeup in particular, brown eyeliner is set to be one of the biggest beauty trends for 2023. While black eyeliner creates a bold and stand-out look, brown eyeliner tends to give a softer dimension to the eyes, whilst still providing richness and intensity. This easy eyeliner alteration can soften down an entire look, making it perfect for every day, minimalistic makeup.
To create this look, line the eye just past the outer corner and gently wing out the liner toward the utter edge of the brow at the same angle as your lower lid and then trace a line along your upper lid connecting it to your wing.
2. Natural Copper (Soft glam):
This one is all about looking glamorous. Pairing copper shadow shades with brown eyeliner will yield a more natural look than black eyeliner. Copper has a very unique energy to it that separates it from more basic browns and neutrals. Light copper tone plays well with highlighted skin, shaped brows, and sculpted cheekbones. To enhance your eyes even more, apply vanilla-tone pencil liner on the bottom lash line.
Using a monochromatic shade of peach, pink or mauve across your lids, lips, and cheeks is a simple way to pull a fresh-day look together without a ton of effort. Simply choose products within your desired shade range and apply them to accentuate your facial traits, even using the same product on two, or all three areas for a better monochromatic effect.
4. Kitten eyeliner:
A subtler and daintier version of the classic cat eye, kitten eyeliner is the newest way to wing. Smaller lines are starting to be a trend because they are easier to execute. It has a more natural vibe but lifts and elongates the eyes for a âsnatched’ look. While some eye shapes can be overwhelmed by a larger wing, part of the kitten eye’s appeal is that it’s universally flattering.
The technique is pretty simple, start your liner in the centre of your eye instead of tracing all the way from the inner corner. Then use short, thin strokes to draw along your lash line and give it a tiny flick at the end for a subtle wing. Using a black eyeshadow and flat liner brush is a pretty foolproof way to get it right if you’re not confident with a liquid liner.
Eye makeup looks for outings
Tips by Lynn:
1. Winged liner:
A winged liner is a classic look and can have a striking effect. Use a gel liner or a liner pen to draw a liner based on your eye shape and preference. You can wear this look with a neutral lip shade or with a red lip for more drama.
2. Shimmery/metallic eye:
A metallic eye is a great look for a night-out. Use a eyeshadow primer or a eyeshadow pencil as a base all over the eyelid. Add a neutral brown in the crease to add depth and definition. With a small blending brush add the same brown under the lower lash line. With a flat brush or with your finger, pick up a shimmery shadow or your preference and place it over your eye lid concentrating most of the product in the centre.
Tips by Giuliodori:
1. Smokey eye:
It involves using a blended or diffused eyeshadow rather than one block colour which creates dimension. A dark eyeshadow is applied to the upper and bottom lids and blended towards the outer corner. The goal is to attain softly blended edges and no harsh lines. Add a liner along the lash line, making sure you’re coating and depositing colour between the lashes to instantly enhance the eye.
The key is to always keep the darkest point at the lash line. It keeps the makeup modern and fresh. Keep it simple. Stick to no more than 3 shadows and a liner to make your eyes pop.
Tip: When executing this at home, start with your eye makeup and then move on to everything else. The powder fallout from a look this intense will definitely require some cleanup.
2. Metallic hue:
A shimmery eyeshadow look is created with metallic-finish shades. Less is more when it comes to this look. It is recommended to stick to just a couple of shades. Start off by applying a primer all over your lids to make your metallic shade glide smoother and stay vibrant. Now dab and sweep a metallic hue, blending towards the crease.
Tip: Metallic eyeshadow formulations work better if you wet your brush prior to applying the eyeshadow or you can also press the shadow on your eyelid with your fingers and then blend them with a fluffy brush.
On a concluding note, experts share a list of common mistakes that should be avoided for a cleaner eye makeup look.
1. Pulling or tugging your eye when you draw on eyeliner
When you pull and then release your eye, it bounces back and your eyeliner does too. This can create bumpiness, texture, and the wrong flick shape.
2. Using the wrong brush
Different brushes can be used for different application techniques and effects. Flat brushes are typically used to apply eye shadow onto eyelids, while brushes with fluffy, tapered tips are used for blending eye shadows. Smaller brushes with dense or angled bristles are useful for precision work.
3. Not blending enough
The most important aspect of applying eye shadow and makeup, in general, is blending well. Whether you are using 2 shadows or 6 you want to create a smooth gradient of colour. Practice blending using gentle motions with your blending brush and use windshield wiper motions to soften any harsh lines or creases.
4. Using the eyelash curler after mascara
Mascara makes lashes sticky and they can possibly get pulled out by the curler. Applying mascara after curling can help hold the lashes in place, and a good curling and volumizing mascara will help maximize your curl.
5. Skipping brows
Brows are an important feature to pay attention to. Well-groomed brows can make all the difference.
6. Using heavy strip lashes
This can make your eyes feel extremely droopy. Opt for individual lashes and fill in any gaps where required.
7. Heavy glitter and fallout
Combat glitter fallout by using scotch tape. Press the tape on the back of your hand a few times so it’s not too sticky and then press on the area to take off any glitter.